First, the facts:

Title: Folk Socks: The History & Techniques of Handknitted Footwear (Updated Edition)

Author: Nancy Bush

Published by: Interweave Press, 2011

Pages: 151

Type: Sock history, techniques, and patterns

Chapters:

1. From Hide to Hose: The Origins of the Sock
2. Looped Fabrics & the Legwear of Queens: The Beginnings of Knitted Hose
3. Knitting in Great Britain: A Way of Working & A Way of Life
4. Knitting in Other European Countries: Traditions & Stocking Styles
5. Carrying on the Tradition: How to Knit a Sock
6. A Classic Sock Pattern: And Some Variations on Heel & Toe
7. The Patterns

The In-Depth Look:

This is practically THE classic sock book. First published in 1994, it explored so many areas of sock knitting that hadn’t been touched on before. The history, first of all, but also heel variations, and different ways to finish off a toe–all sorts of details. It was an eye-opener for knitters who had basically knitted the same heel-flap/gusset heel and grafted the same toe for their entire sock-knitting careers. Which is assuming that they’d knitted socks at all because, when I started knitting in 1988, there were practically no sock patterns out there–which is why it was the 21st century before I knit my first sock.

Nancy Bush’s “Folk Socks” was a revelation. Not only did she explore the (mostly European) history of the stocking and all its regional variations, she provided some truly beautiful traditional sock patterns. Like many books of the period, though, the original had something of a no-nonsense feel to it. There were pictures, but, well, compared to the stylish knitting books in vogue today, it doesn’t look like anything special–very plain vanilla and utilitarian.

So, when I tell you that book has been updated, does it make your heart beat a little faster?

Because the new version–a good 30-pages longer than the original–is a sight for spoiled eyes. It’s the same amazing book but now it’s also a beautiful little book with a more generous layout. It’s got larger pictures, more color, and generally more pizazz than my 1994 edition, which makes it a pleasure to flip through. The old edition felt a little more like a textbook. This one feels like eye candy.

The burning question, though, is … how are they different?

From the press release:

“This revised edition of Folk Socks contains the in-depth history and the step-by-step instruction from Nancy Bush that sock knitters have come to love and depend on, but is now completely updated. Discontinued yarns have been replaced with current yarns, and modifications that Nancy has learned since the book was first published have been added. Also new is a bonus section on Estonian-inspired socks.”

Without comparing my two copies word for word, I can say that they look pretty identical. The sections of history, the lists of patterns, all seem to be the same, with the one exception that the old “Greek Sock” pattern is completely replaced by the new “Estonian Crossroads” pattern and there are a couple modifications to some of the other ones. I can’t say for sure what the “modifications Nancy has learned since” are, though.

Do you need to buy the new update if you have the older edition? Probably not … but the new edition sure looks nice. I find it easier to browse through. Knitting books have evolved a lot in the last couple of decades, after all, and this is one book that deserved a nice face lift.

You can check it out here at Amazon.com.
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This review copy was kindly donated by Interweave Press. Thank you!

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• Knitted Lace of Estonia

First, the facts:

Title: Elizabeth Zimmermann’s Knitter’s Almanac: The Commemorative Edition of the Bestselling Classic

Author: Elizabeth Zimmermann

Published by: Dover Publications, 2010

Pages: 154

Type: Patterns and inspiration.

Chapters:

1. January: An Aran Sweater
2. February: Some Babies’ Things
3. March: Difficult Sweater (Not Really)
4. April: Mystery Blanket: Weaving
5. May: Mittens for Next Winter
6. June: Borders. Small Stuff for Summer Knitting; Three Hats
7. July: A Shawl: Good Travel-Knitting. One-Row Buttonhole
8. August: Christmas Fiddle-Faddle in the Wilds
9. September: Nether Garments
10. October: Open-Collared Pullover
11. November: Moccasin Socks
12. December: Hurry-Up Last-Minute Sweater

The In-Depth Look:

I hesitated a long time before buying this book. After all, I DID have a copy of the 1981 edition that I bought when I was a new knitter. I’d read it many times, too, and already knew that it was a gem. Chatty. Friendly. Personable. Encouraging.

Was it really worth buying a new copy just because it was bigger, with color pictures, and a new forward from Stephanie Pearl-McPhee, and the February Lady sweater pattern?

Oddly enough, I still don’t have an answer to that question. I’ve been too busy rereading this book and grinning. It’s like visiting with an old, dear friend who is sporting a new haircut and a stylish outfit but is exactly the same person you played with in grade school. So far as I can tell this is exactly the same book, even to the typeface, it’s just dressed up with a little color and a little more substance than the small paperback I used to stick in my knitting bag.

The point is that this is an homage to a knitter who helped all of us open our eyes to possibilities. Even knitters today who find her hopelessly “quaint” or unreadable owe her a debt. (Yes, there are such knitters.) Elizabeth Zimmermann made such an impact on the way so many knitters think about the act of knitting … if anyone deserved a fancy new outfit for her 100th birthday, it’s she.

That said–since I DO have a dearly-loved paperback version of this, and since it IS almost exactly the same–I don’t regret having waited for KnitPicks to have their 40%-off book sale before I bought this. If I hadn’t had an old edition, though? Yes, I would absolutely have paid full price to have this in my library. And yes, I’m delighted to have two copies–my old paperback for every day, and my fancy new hardcover for special occasions. Happy belated birthday, Elizabeth.

(And yes, you can buy your copy here, if you don’t have one already!)

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• Knitting Around

First, the facts:

Title: Knitting Ganseys

Author: Beth Brown-Reinsel

Book:
Published by: White River Press, 1993
Pages: 151

DVD:
Published by: Knitting Traditions and Essanay Film and Television, 2010
Length: 97 minutes

Type: How-to for a classic design.

Chapters (book):

1. What Is a Gansey?
2. Getting Started and Casting On
3. Ribbing and Welts
4. The Plain Area, Seam Stitches, and Definition Ridge
5. Pattern Motifs
6. The Underarm Gussets
7. The Upper Body and Neckline
8. Shoulder Straps and Joins
9. The Sleeve
10. Finishing the Neckline
11. Planning and Designing Your Own
12. Six Garment Designs

The In-Depth Look:

I’ve been meaning to review this book for ages. Not only is Beth Brown-Reinsel one of my favorite designers, but her “Knitting Ganseys” book is a classic. I was lucky enough to meet her at “Vogue Knitting Live” last weekend and told her so–and immediately moved the book up my queue (because I’m a woman of my word).

It turns out that it’s a good thing that I hadn’t gotten around to writing up the review, though, because she now has a companion DVD, which she was nice enough to send me to review. I hadn’t even realized she had one, and I have to tell you that … well, I’m getting ahead of myself.

So, where do I start?

Well, the book came first.

As a good historic-technique book should, this begins talking about the history of the gansey, and then dives into the details about shaping, pattern stitches, preferred cast-ons, how the underarm gusset works … all the detail you need to know to appreciate and recreate a gansey of your own.

One of the best parts is that, in addition to telling you all these things, she acknowledges that tackling a full-size project might be intimidating. So, she has you make a small version sampler of a gansey. A stroke of genius, don’t you think? (Not to mention quite the coup for some doll of your acquaintance later on.) By the time you’ve knitted your way through the sampler, you should have no qualms with making a full-sized version for yourself.

I’m not exaggerating when I tell you that this book is full of information. Mostly, of course, details specific to gansey sweaters, but lots of tidbits useful to all your knitting. She walks you through the construction of a gansey (sample-sized and full-sized), provides stitch motifs for you to use in your own, and then gives you all the knitty-gritty information you need to design one of your own. (And if you don’t want to do all that work, there are 6 fully-written patterns for you to knit.)

Now, the video.

It’s the perfect companion to the book. In many ways, it covers the exact same ground. The background and instructional material are more or less identical, but it’s wonderful to see actual samples of different stitches and why, say, one cast-on is better than another. Or to really see the difference in the three variations for a 2-stitch cable. Because this time, the samples and the backgrounds are in full color.

If the book has a flaw it’s in the black-and-white photos. In the 18 years since it was published, we’ve gotten used to slick, multi-color books so it looks a little dated. It’s like watching “Casablanca” compared to something like “Bourne Identity.” You can’t deny that the quality is there, but 21st century eyes are used to more vivid visual stimulation. (It always saddens me when new knitters shrug off really excellent books because they’re black-and-white and seem “old.”)

Well, the video more than balances that. Having a chance to see the book come to life meant I particularly enjoyed watching the video–not only to see demonstrations of the techniques, but because I liked being able to really SEE the samples.

I loved Beth as a teacher, too. Her voice is pleasant, her explanations are clear, her personality shines through, and she’s a lovely person to spend time with. She absolutely knows what she’s talking about and gives solid reasons for why you should do certain things, or what the historical variations were, but without sounding too pushy or strict about “you must.” I’ve never been lucky enough to take a class with her, but now I feel like I have. Even having read the book, I feel like I still learned a lot from the video.

Do you need both?

Well, probably not–but they are ideal together. You can always rewatch the video for techniques instead of referencing the paper book. The paper book does cover all the ground of the DVD. The DVD comes with printable pattern for the “Little Gansey,” too, so you don’t reallly NEED to have both. Personally, though, I’m more likely to refer to a book than to a video if I have questions, so I like having both.

They really are companions–there are details in the book that don’t make it into the DVD for time constraints, and the visual aids in the video are definitely more helpful than the still, gray-scaled photos in the book. They go together, like music and lyrics.

You can buy both the book and the video at Amazon.com. They’re both available from Beth’s site, too.

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The book was my own personal copy, but the review copy of the DVD was kindly donated by the author. Thank you!

First, the facts:

Title: Aran Knitting: New and Revised Edition

Author: Alice Starmore

Published by: Dover Publishing, 2010

Pages: 217

Type: History, How-To, Patterns.

Chapters:

1. Historical Background
2. Aran Patterns
3. Classic Aran Designs
4. Celtic Designs
5. Designing an Aran Sweater

Pattern Size Range: Varies

The In-Depth Look:

What is there to say, really, that hasn’t been said?

Alice Starmore’s books are among the most hyped and most sought after knitting books in the history of knitting books. Well, I don’t have statistics on that, specifically, but when old hardcovers of pattern books are selling for hundreds of dollars on eBay … there has to be a reason.

I have copies of some of her books–her Celtic Collection Knitting book, the Celtic needlepoint one, Fisherman Sweaters–but not the ones lusted after by the masses. My crystal ball was obviously foggy in the 90s and I just didn’t foresee how darn popular Pacific Highway was going to be.

Or, you know, this Aran book.

It’s a mystery to me, really, why I did NOT buy it way back when. I have a tendency to latch onto books I like and not let them out of my hands. My guess is that, just out of college, the price for this rich, informative, full-color book was just a little out of my reach. Or maybe my local yarn shop at the time didn’t carry the book. I really don’t know.

What I do know is that I would have loved this book as much then as I do now.

First, it’s gorgeous. Not having an original edition to look at, I can’t tell you how many of the pictures are original and how many are new, but the photos are all beautiful.

Then, it’s informative. There is a great history of Aran knitting here, interestingly told. Not to mention detailed instructions on how to actually knit them, how to do the cables and bobbles and all the other bits that you need to know.

And, the patterns? Oh yeah. There are patterns. Gorgeous, cabled, intricate patterns that make me want to knit almost every one of them. Some are downright famous by now.

Seriously–do you really need me to be telling you any of this? Of COURSE you want this book. It’s one of Alice Starmore’s outright masterpieces, reissued at a price that people can actually afford.

And, to sweeten the pot? There’s even a brand-new sweater pattern. It’s a lovely, fitted ladies’ cardigan, and is just gorgeous.

As I say, I don’t have an original copy to compare this to, but according to the copyright page, this edition has a new forward from the author, the new pattern (Eala Bhan), and a couple pages at the back which mention where the photos were taken.

So–what are you waiting for? Why have you not gone to buy yourself a copy yet?

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• Alice Starmore’s Book of Fair Isle Knitting

First, the facts:

Title: Knitting Lace: A Workshop with Patterns

Author: Susanna E Lewis

Published by: First printing Taunton Press 1992, Current Printing Schoolhouse Press 2009

Pages: 209

Type: How-to.

Chapters:

I. Sampler Patterns
II. A Lace Knitting Workshop
1. Getting Started
2. Exploring the Sampler Patterns
3. Charting Lace Patterns
4. Using Lace Patterns in Garments

The In-Depth Look:

To put it simply, this book is a masterpiece, and that’s not a word I bandy about loosely. Recently reprinted by Schoolhouse Press, this is the story of Susanna Lewis’ classic recreation of a 19th century lace sampler for the Brooklyn Museum. She says in the introduction, “My job was to figure out how all the patterns were made. I started the project with great confidence, as I was a skilled hand knitter and had been knitting lace for many years, following complicated patterns in books both old and new. But I soon discovered how little I really knew about the principles of lace knitting and about the struture of lace. I had been knitting lace, but I didn’t know much about lace.”

The book starts quite simply–with the 92 lace patterns that make up the sampler–with each stitch charted and spelled out line-by-line. This alone makes the book interesting and worthwhile, but that’s just the start.

It’s part 2 that’s going to knock your handknit socks off. In the second half, the author takes everything she learned from charting all those lace patterns and shares it with you. Just knowing how to follow a lace pattern and knit it is not the same as understanding it,She explores what makes knitted lace in the first place, the motifs you can expect, how increases and decreases balance each other and add shape. There can be medallions of patterns or long, vertical edgings, and the only thing limiting you is your imagination. Like anything else, once you know the mechanics, you can do anything.

I’ve only recently gotten a copy of this book, and need to go back and study, well, the entire second half in depth, because a quick read is ultimately unsatisfying–like thinking you understand the “William Tell Overture” because you’ve heard the Lone Ranger theme. There is a TON of information in here, but it’s information that’s easily grasped because Susanna Lewis explains it so well. It’s amazing–not only as a piece of scholarship from charting that original lace sampler, but for all the lessons learned from it.

Of course, that’s the point about a sampler in the first place. The original stitcher uses it as a record of things she has learned, whether it’s embroidery stitches, knitting stitches, or mending techniques. It’s her own personal record of progress, and also a reference to use later on. By recreating this 19th century sampler, Susanna Lewis has done exactly that–used it as a reference, but also as a learning experience. The book just shares it with the rest of us.

There’s a reason this out-of-print book was selling for hundreds of dollars, but thanks to Schoolhouse Press, it’s back in print. Want to see it yourself? You can get a copy from Amazon.com.

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First, the facts:

Title: Weekend Knitting

Author: Melanie Falick

Published by: Stewart, Tabori, & Chang, 2003

Pages: 175

Type: Patterns.

Chapters:

1. Home and Hearth
2. Body and Soul
3. The Charm of Children

Pattern Size Range: Huge variation

The In-Depth Look:

(Note, my review is for the original hardcover edition.)

How old does a book have to be before it becomes a classic?

Well, let’s hope six years is enough, because this one deserves to be. I’m not the only one to think so, either, since the publisher has recently come out with a paperback version of the book–a relative rarity in knitting books which are usually published in one format, and that’s it.

It’s worth it, though–especially if it makes this book available to knitters who opted not to pay for the hardcover the first time around.

This is a charming book. Dedicated to knitting projects that you can make in a weekend, it’s filled with fast, simple projects … but that doesn’t mean boring, by any means. The Reverse-Bloom Flower Washcloths, for example–why make your washcloths square, when you can make them pretty chenille flowers? Felted slippers are great, but aren’t they even better when they’re Argyle? Or when the toes curl up like an elf’s? Why knit just an ordinary tote bag when you can knit a checker/backgammon board right into the design so that you have something to do when you get wherever you’re going?

And, really, when’s the last time you saw lace-edged pillowcases? Or a lace seat on a chair?

Yep. Charming.

Even MORE charming? The book is interspersed with sidebars and recipes to make your knitting weekend that much more fun. Hot cocoa, anyone? And let’s not forget to be prepared for guests by having knitting that they can do, too.

I love this delightful book. It’s fun just to flip through it and let your imagination get tickled.

The new paperback edition is available from Amazon.com for $12.89.

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First, the facts:

Title: Heirloom Knitting: A Shetland Lace Knitter’s Pattern and Workbook

Author: Sharon Miller

Published by: Shetland Times Ltd, 2002

Pages: 295

Type: Design and Patterns.

Chapters:

1. Introduction
2. Knitting Advice
3. Patterns
4. Design
5. Projects
6. Miscellany

Pattern Size Range: N/A

The In-Depth Look:

Do you like knitted lace? Does knitting lace make your heart beat faster? Do you drool over Wedding ring shawls?

This may well be the book for you.

It’s not full simply of patterns for shawls and such that you can knit (though it has them). No, this is a complete compendium of Shetland Lace. And when I say “complete” I really mean complete. Exhaustive, in fact. If you have a question about Shetland lace chances are the answer is in this book.

Sharon Miller starts off with a history of lace knitting in the Shetland isles, and then moves into technical details about knitting techniques (cast-ons, yarn joins, and the like). Next comes stitch patterns. Dozens of lace patterns, sorted by type (centers, borders, edgings) and difficulty. This alone makes this a great resource.

But wait, there’s more! (As they say) The next section is a thorough, detailed examination of how these shawls (and other lace garments) are put together. The proportions, the construction, how to handle the designs at the corners. Everything. And then this is folowed by a collection of her own designs, which are always fabulous. Not just shawls, but christening gowns and lace edgings.

Oh, this is beautiful stuff.

Now, it must be said that most of the illustrations are in black and white, but this doesn’t hurt the book at all, since most of the illustrations are showing off the LACE, and that’s most easily done by white-on-black photographs. There are some color photos, though, if that’s important to you. The index is thorough, the details are incredible.
I should tell you, this is NOT a cheap book. In fact, I think it’s the most expensive book I have in my library, at something like $45. But I will also tell you that this is one book I will NOT give up. It’s fantastic. The lace is inspiring, the patterns exquisite. It’s worth every penny.

This fantastic, if somewhat expensive, book is available at amazon.com.

(Sorry, no links for bigger pictures.)

First, the facts:

Title: A History of Handknitting

Author: Richard Rutt

Published by: Interweave Press, 1987

Pages: 248

Type: History

Chapters:

1. Defintions and techniques
2. Before 1500
3. Henry VIII to Commonwealth
4. The Restoration to 1835
5. The Victorian Age and the belle epoque
6. The First World War and after
7. Some Local traditions of the British Isles
8. The Americas
9. Eastern Knitting

Pattern Size Range: N/A

The In-Depth Look:

It took me years to get my hands on a copy of this book–not because it was so hard to find, but because, interested though I was, I wasn’t willing to pay full price. Which is why I was so delighted when it came up on the Interweave Hurt Book Sale list a year or so ago (and why my copy doesn’t have a paper cover). So, the big question–was it worth the wait? Worth the price?

Yes. This book is big and has a huge amount of information.

The first thing I need to tell you is that while this book claims to cover the history of knitting, it focuses on the history of British knitting. Sure, other cultures are mentioned, but the main focus is on the British Isles. There’s nothing wrong with that, of course, because they created a lot of styles and techniques that I consider “classic” knitting, but you should probably know that the Americas and the entire Eastern hemisphere only get one chapter each.

That said, this book is thorough. Text-dense and full of facts. The tone, though, is dry. It could be a college textbook, and … it reads like one. Thoroughly researched, properly annotated, and … did I mention it was dry?

That, in fact, is the book’s biggest flaw. It’s not a juicy kind of book to curl up with on a rainy afternoon. It’s more the type you pull out in your study carrel in the library with your pen, ready to take notes, but that would be a lot of notes. The entire history of western knitting is in here.

Of course, the dryness is only a flaw if you read it looking for something more entertaining than informative, because it is very, very informative. I’ve been reading knitting books, articles, and magazines for over twenty years and this book still had a lot of things to teach me. I appreciate that in a book.

This book is available from Amazon.com.

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First, the facts:

Title: Actually, two books in one review! Spinning in the Old Way and High Whorling The really

Author: Priscilla A. Gibson-Roberts

Published by: Nomad Press, 2006, and 1998

Pages: 176, 134

Type: Spinning

Chapters: (Spinning in the Old Way)

1. In praise of the high-whorl spindle
2. Getting started
3. Spindles and supplementary tools
4. Fibers and fiber preparation
5. Spinning technique
6. Singles, plies. and cables
7. finishing your yarn

The In-Depth Look:

I’m reviewing both of these books at the same time because, for all intents and purposes, they’re basically the same. High Whorling came first. My copy is only a few years old, but the original edition was 1998. Spinning in the Old Way came out in 2006, and while the pictures are slightly different, and there are some cosmetic changes, the content is pretty much the same. (Not exactly the same, mind you, but in comparing the two books, I honestly didn’t notice a lot of substantive differences, so if you already have one of these two, you probably don’t need to buy the other one.)

When I started spinning in 2004, I bought copies of just about every spinning book I could find, and High Whorling was unique for two main reasons.

1. It focused solely on using a drop spindle.
2. It focused even more on using a specifically high-whorl spindle.

Almost every other spinning book I have tends to be broad in nature. They discuss everything from where the fiber comes from, to how it’s prepared, to the parts of a spinning wheel, to drafting, to finishing … everything. It’s all in there, like that old tomato sauce commercial.

This book (if you’ll forgive me for referring to the pair of them as if they were one and the same) is refreshing because it focuses on making yarn with one tool only–the high-whorl spindle.

The author does, of course, discuss things like fiber sources, carding, and how to use a niddy-noddy. Just because she’s focusing spindling doesn’t mean she’s not making sure you know everything you need to know to USE that high-whorl spindle. That’s exactly the point. You could take this book, get a spindle, and some roving, and go off into a corner for a while and come back making yarn. And, unlike some other spinning books, you’re not going to feel rushed into trying out a spinning wheel.

The illustrations in both books are hand-drawn by the author. Just simple, line drawings, but they get the point across. There are no fancy, color photos, no attempts at being cool and modern. This book embraces a method of making yarn that goes back to, well, forever. It’s informative, interesting, helpful, and does exactly what it promises to do.

High Whorling is harder to come by, but Spinning in the Old Way is widely available and well worth the look.

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First, the facts:

Title: Knitting in the Old Way: Designs & Techniques from Ethnic Sweaters

Author: Priscilla Gibson-Roberts & Deborah Robson

Published by: Nomad Press, 1985 & 2004

Pages: 307

Type: Design.

Chapters:

1. Origins
2. Traditional Yarns
3. Equipment
4. Knitting Methods
5. Techniques
6. Tools for Planning Sweaters
7. An Evolution of Shapes
8. Style Alternatives
9. Color Stranding
10. Intarsia
11. Texture
12. Geometric Patterning
13. Crochet-Enhanced Knits

Pattern Size Range: Whatever you need.

The In-Depth Look:

I’ll confess right away that this book has been one of my favorites for years. I have the 1985 edition, and pull it off the shelf every time I start thinking about designing my own sweater.

Why is this one so good?

It’s not filled with trendy patterns. In fact, it’s exactly the opposite. It’s filled with old, time-honored sweater shapes, from the oldest, knitted blouses to saddle-shoulder Aran styles.

Along the way, she discusses, well, everything! Knitting techniques. Ways of adding color. How to do cables. When to do color and cables. How an Icelandic pullover differs from a Fair Isle one.

All the different shapes, patterns, and techniques are accompanied by clear, hand-drawn schematics.

Obviously, if you’re only interested in more modern shapes, more trendy designs, this won’t be the book for you. But for a look at the history and reasons for some of the designs that have been around for donkeys’ years? I can’t think of another book in my library that’s as all-around useful.

Oh, and as to the two editions? With the exception of a final chapter on spinning yarn that’s in the earlier book and not in the newer one, the information all seems pretty much the same. The organization, however, is different. Things are shuffled around to different chapters, but it’s all still there. True, the 1985 edition was spiral-bound, which made using it as a reference a little easier, but the perfect binding on the new edition is likely to last longer.

Really, it’s a great book. I mean, why else would the publishing gods have granted it a new life? It’s a classic.

The newer edition is available at amazon.com for $18.45 which, ironically, is just about what I paid (full price) for my 1985 edition.

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The review copy of the new edition was kindly donated by Nomad Press. Thank you!